Practical advice for running in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia
I am lucky enough at the moment to be almost half way through a three month travel around South East Asia as part of my post university gap year before entering the real world of work next year! At first i was just going to
S.E Asia has some beautiful scenery to run through
make the most of the three months and treat it as one big no running holiday as I have been struggling with an injury for the past six months. However, all didn’t go to plan, as after the first two weeks the familiar running bug began to bite as I surfaced from a week long binge in Thailand’s famous party islands and really felt the need to stretch my legs! Thinking that it would be similar to running back home in the UK, for the first run I simply shoved on my old running trainers (that I had thankfully decided to pack last minute) and headed out into the great unknown. Lots of mistakes followed which meant I wasn’t able to get a decent run until i visited Chang Mai in North Thailand a week later. The following is some practical advice that I have build up from my collection of runs across the four countries of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam and will hopefully be of some use to anyone looking to keep up their training whilst visiting this beautiful part of the world.
Heat and Humidity – Camelback’s and Sunglasses
A fairly obvious point to kick off with. The temperatures in and around major cities in Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam like Bangkok and Chang Mai can reach 41degrees centigrade on an average day at the peak of the hot season (May). Attempting anything more than a jog in these kind of temperatures is suicidal if you are coming straight from a Northern hemisphere winter and even a jog should only be attempted after a few weeks of acclimatisation and lots of water.
The usual rules apply when undertaking a new addition to your training; that is, start off slow and build the distance and speed up only when you see how your body responds to the temperatures.
You will need to take on lots more water than usual, both before, during and after your run as you will be sweating when you are standing still in the shade let alone out running. As you cannot trust the water in countries like Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam you will need to carry all of your water with you on your run. A good investment before heading off on your travels to South East Asia is either a CamelBak or something similar. I was forced to pack light as I am backpacking around Asia so i am using a Camelbak Delaney Plus. It accommodates a large sized water bottle nicely unlike most other Camelbak’s it straps around my waist, which is great as then there are no annoying shoulder straps to start rubbing if i decide to run topless in the heat.
I have seen a few runners using similar hydration systems whilst out on runs in Asia and i would definitely recommend going for something with a little larger capacity as it is really surprising just how much water you drink when it hits 40degreed centigrade! I have used several Camelbak’s at home for long distance running and can recommend either the Cemelbak Octane XTC or the Camelbak Waterbak black.
Running sunglasses are also a must as the temperatures and high humidity result in a large amount of glare from what seems like every surface
Adidas shield sunglasses
possible. Popular models that I have seen people wearing back in the Uk are pairs like Tifosi Slip sunglasses, Adidas Shield sunglasses and Adidas Supernova sunglasses. But if you are worried about breaking or losing them then Decathlon stock a good range of sunglasses starting at 19.99 for a decent pair . Just make sure they are comfortable and have 100% UV protection because you will need it!
A room with aircon and a decent cold shower should also be top you your list after your cool down as due to extreme temperatures in Aisan summers you will take a lot longer to get your temperature under control.
Dogs and the occasional monkey!
No matter where you are running in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia or Vietnam you will probably come across several semi wild dogs whilst on your run. Although in the cities they are not so much of a problem, in the country these dogs are often found in packs as all the neighbourhood dogs gang together when they are not being used for securing their owners property at night and can be a serious obstacle to overcome in order for you to get both a decent and uninterrupted run.
Most of these dogs are untrained and mistake the action of running for aggression, as moving faster than a moderate paced walk it is just not done thing in South East Asia! Most of the dogs you will come across shouldn’t give you a problem as long as you don’t catch them by surprise but if you do get hassled by one of the larger more aggressive types then try and get some help from nearby locals who more often than not will run straight up to it and give it a smack on the nose for you and yell gibberish at it until it sulks away.
Try not to hit the dog yourself if at all possible as the locals might not be too happy and you never know how the dog is going to react, especially if its hasn’t been treated well as is all too often the case in South East Asia. On 
one of my runs i was harassed by a huge slobbering mongrel of some kind that had obviously been in the wars as it was covered in infected insect bites and gashes from fights with other dogs. I was about to slot in another speed session into my running routine (run away) but a local saved me with the help of a long length of bamboo! I have heard of runners being attacked by dogs in South East Asia, especially in the more rural areas so it is always a good idea to get your Rabies jabs before you take on more rural locations where medical help might be a distance away.
Road running in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam
Roads in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam can add a whole new dimension to your running as roads can change from brand new concrete (no tarmac due to the heat) to pot holed dirt track in a matter of a few metres. The main highways in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam are of a very high quality (unlike parts of northern Cambodia) but no one in their right mind would want to run along them with all the traffic speeding by, especially seeing as no one in this part of the world has ever heard of a catalytic converter! That leaves the rest of the country’s roads which suffer from serious under investment outside the main urban and tourist areas. Beware of potholes and open sewers along the side of roads and try to avoid stepping on manhole covers as often they are either poorly fitting or dangerous and can easily result in a sprained ankle or nasty headlong fall into the gutter!
City roads can be just as bad but there isn’t allot of decent inner city road runs to be found in the larger of the South East Asian cities due to the incredible number of people and scooters that line the streets and pavements that make running all but impossible and turning even the most simple of routes into a advanced assault course! If you are looking to run in the larger South East Asian cities like Bangkok, Chang Mai, Vientiane, Pakxe, Phnom Penh, Saigon and Hanoi then your best bet is to either head for the outskirts of town of find a park to run around.
Tropical Storms
The wet season in South East Asia brings a whole new load of obstacles to runners but also has its upside as well. Early in the wet season you find that it rains in short shard showers that only last for 20 minutes or so and can cool the air nicely albeit only until the sun breaks through the mist a few minutes later.
Although this can be a nice time of year to run as it makes the hot humid weather just a little bit more bearable to run in, caution must be taken when running through a rain shower. Although they may be short, rain storms in
Rain can be a real hazard in S.E Asia
South East Asia are often much heavier then what you may be used to back at home and the vision of both yourself and other road users can become severely impaired .Accidents happen all to often when it rains as the scooters that characterise South East Asian roads start skidding all over the place and if you happen to be running down a track or road when one comes along then the driver may not be able to move out of the way in time or may lose control of his vehicle.
Roads can also become death traps in such weather as the rain quickly fills potholes and road imperfections; making the roads even more dangerous for runners.
Local Scam artists
This might be a bit of a minor point but it is worth mentioning as a general pointer for visitors to South East Asian countries like Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam, especially if you are planning on running in especially touristy areas (especially Bangkok!)
Most of the locals that you will encounter will be very approachable and friendly but in those areas frequented by tourists you will also inevitably find locals who are just out to make a quick buck out of any unsuspecting tourist they come across. Beware of locals that approach you, ask where you are from and then claim to have a relative either going or already living there as this is the beginning of one of the most common scams in touristy areas of South East Asia. Also, if your plan is to run as far in one direction as you can and then hail either a ‘tuk tuk’ (motor bike type taxi) then make sure you point to where you want to go on a map or make them understand properly where you want to go to as sometimes unscrupulous drivers will end up taking you miles out of your way and then charge you for the privilege of getting home. Your best bet is to stick to conventional taxis that have the added advantage of aircon as well as standard pricing so you can escape that 40 degree heat.
Running at night
Running at night or in the early hours is a great way to escape the burning temperatures that summer in South East Asia can bring. Traffic is also less prevalent at this time of the day and you are more likely to encounter a heard of cows than a car or scooter at this time of the day! The only disadvantage to the lack of people and traffic is that there are less people to ask direction from if you get lost and it is also not as safe as running in the day time as this is when criminals make the most of poor lighting and drunk tourists. Just make sure someone knows where you are planning on running and if possible you should also carry something like a phone or a bit of loose change so you can always find a payphone (good luck finding one in rural S.E Asia!) and phone someone for help.